5/19/2008 - CO, First Flatiron Climb


Photos:  http://www2.snapfish.com/thumbnailshare/AlbumID=219726719/a=38054161/t_=38054161 

 

Monday 5/19:

A friend, Paul Mags, was having a birthday.  In true Boulder fashion, he was going to have a full moon hike up to the base of the first flatiron and would celebrate there.  I thought it would be a perfect opportunity to do a flatiron climb.  Three others joined up; Erin, Laurie and Julia.  None of them had climbed the First Flatiron before.  Erin had never done a multi-pitch climb before either.  Should be a good time!

There was a third group that Paul wasn't aware of; led by another friend, Bryce.  He was coming up just before Paul, so they could surprise Paul for his birthday.

The day before the climb, several other folks were contemplating joining us.  One bailed, and two others (Mark and Scott) would make the climb; but they didn't yet know when they would start.  We would coordinate with radios.

I was going to team up with Erin since she was the least experienced of our group; and then Julia and Laurie would be the second team.  We met at the parking lot around 3pm, did some last minute gear organization, talked about the climb, etc.  We started hiking up around 3:30pm, got to the base of the climb around 4:15pm and started climbing.  We were hoping to meet Paul's group around 9 or 9:30pm.  The last time I had climbed the First Flatiron with ropes (have more recently free soloed it a couple of times), I think it had taken me around 6 hours car to car.  That was with a pretty experienced other climber though.  Still thought we had enough slack time.

The climbing was fun, and Erin was doing well.  We were just using a 7.7mm ice floss line; as I didn't anticipate falling, and even if I did, it would be very unlikely that I would generate a lot of force.  The Flatirons are not a vertical climb.  On the way up, a free soloist lapped us.  I commented on how much quicker it was without a rope; and he took a look at my 7.7mm ice floss line and commented that what we were using wasn't a "rope" anyway.  Funny.

We hit a ledge with a boulder, and waited for the other group to join us around 7pm.  The going was a bit slower than I was hoping.  We chatted and made sure everyone was still comfortable.  Laurie didn't really want to climb in the dark; so we would continue climbing, and possibly set a rappel so she could jump off when we hit the ridgeline.  We continued climbing and soon it was getting dark.  We still had around 3 pitches of the ridge to do, but Laurie wanted to jump off.  I set up a rappel anchor where she would be able to hop off.  The gals caught up, so I free climbed another pitch while they were getting Laurie down.  Julia then attached her rope to Erin.  So, I would climb a pitch, belay Erin on my rope, and then Erin would belay Julia on her rope as I free climbed the next pitch.

When I hit the summit, the guys were pretty much caught up too.  Mark was up on the summit pretty soon after I was.  He belayed Scott up, and then while Erin was coming over, we set the rap line with Mark and Scott's rope.  Unfortunately, while I was on the summit, Paul's group got there, and the surprise group jumped out.  Erin and Julia still needed to make their way over.  No worries.

Mark and Scott rapped down, then Erin and Julia made it over.  Took a bit longer than I had hoped, and while Erin and Julia were going down, many people already had left (it was a school night... ;)  Bummer.  I finished cleaning up the top, and rapped down.  There were still a few people down there, so I brought out the huge bottle of wine that I had lugged up and over the climb; and shared it with the folks that were still there.  Paul cut us some cake and shared ice cream.  There was still other food there including some fresh fruits, plenty of desserts, etc.  Visited for a few, and then we started hiking down around 11:15pm.  It was nice to visit with folks on the way down, and we were back at the cars around midnight.

It was definitely a fun evening, and a good climb.  Maybe next year we'll be on time for the party; but everyone was safe and the gals had a good time and enjoyed their first Flatiron climb, which is the most important thing.



Hope you enjoy the pics,
A.J.
 

 

Photos:  http://www2.snapfish.com/thumbnailshare/AlbumID=219726719/a=38054161/t_=38054161 

Group Room (multiple albums): http://ajoutdoors.snapfish.com/snapfish

 


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